Fashion statement: The red carpet is unforgiving

With a lifetime of red carpet misses ranging from uncomfortably busty Guinevere gowns to something reminiscent of Grandma’s doily tablecloth, Disney princess Miley Cyrus hasn’t exactly been fashion It Girl material. Until now.

The sleek and chic futuristic white dress Cyrus wore to the People’s Choice Awards on Jan. 11 was so well-received that it could single-handedly turn the star’s fashion fortunes around. The dress was by David Koma, a designer who hails from Georgia, shows in London and is so new to the fashion scene that his website is still under construction.

When it comes to the red carpet, it’s easy to think that a beautiful dress is just that: a beautiful dress. But the right dress can be a game changer when it comes to how a celebrity is perceived and the career opportunities that follow. And the wrong dress can mean this year’s fresh young thing is forgotten by the time the Oscars red carpet is rolled up.

Some people get it. Rooney Mara, for instance, has been appearing on red carpets in tough-and-sexy black gowns by Nina Ricci and Roksanda Ilincic that have more than a hint of her Lisbeth Salander character in “The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo.” Berenice Bejo, on the other hand, has been blending into the background, wearing a series of blue gowns by Gucci and Elie Saab, each one indistinguishable from the last, and missing an opportunity to stand out, either on her own behalf or on behalf of her hit film “The Artist.”

“Some actresses don’t understand that a great dress on the red carpet does have an impact,” says Hal Rubenstein, In Style fashion director and author of the new book “100 Unforgettable Dresses.”

“They are just looking for the pretty dress, not the right dress.”

Compare Bejo to Marion Cotillard, another French ingenue who was a relative unknown when she burst on the awards show scene in 2007. Nominated for several film awards for playing Edith Piaf in the film “La Vie En Rose,” Cotillard was on a red carpet merry-go-round similar to Bejo, who has been nominated for several awards for “The Artist.”

“When Cotillard was nominated, she wore one distinctive dress after another,” Rubenstein says. “‘La Vie En Rose’ wasn’t a film that was going to be a big hit, yet she looked so distinctive, even the public who didn’t see the film was asking who is this woman. Berenice Bejo is a lovely actress and a lovely woman, but her clothing is generic. So consequently, we’re not noticing her.”

Emma Stone pulled off a red carpet coup at last year’s Golden Globe Awards when she showed up in a simple coral Calvin Klein gown and white-blond hair and upstaged everyone.

“She was a brand new girl who had an unexpected hit in the kids’ film ‘Easy A,’” Rubenstein says. “And when she showed up, it was like someone opened a window. She was so striking, it introduced her to an adult audience.” In the year since, Stone has become a Hollywood and fashion world darling. In 2011, she racked up Glamour, Elle, Teen Vogue and Vanity Fair magazine covers.

The dress Cyrus chose for the People’s Choice Awards speaks volumes about where she would like her career to go. For the first time, she came across less as a hard-partying, trash-talking, peace sign-flashing teen and more as a sophisticated, well-dressed, refined young woman. And as it turns out, that’s what her stylist intended.

Swedish fashion chain H&M sees small drop in Q4 profit due to discounting but market share up

Swedish fashion retailer Hennes & Mauritz AB on Thursday posted a 2.4 percent drop in fourth-quarter net profits, slightly weaker than market expectations, due to higher materials costs and heavy discounting to attract customers during an economic downturn.

Still, the company said it continued to gain market share during the period and remains optimistic about the future.

Critics split on Amy Winehouse-inspired fashion show

Fashion critics have delivered mixed reviews of designer Jean Paul Gaultier’s latest collection, which was inspired by the late Amy Winehouse.

The show featured models with huge, beehive hairdos, exposed bra straps and pencil skirts.

The Independent’s Susannah Frankel said: “This was not his most accomplished collection by any stretch of the imagination.”

But writing in the New York Times, Suzy Menkes called it an “exceptional” show.

Backstage, the French fashion designer admitted that although he had never met the star, their styles “had always been similar.”

The 59-year-old told the New York Times that he thought it was a “scandal” that Winehouse had never featured on the front cover of any fashion magazines.

“She was so exceptional in her style; how she held her body; the way she dressed, mixing pieces from different decades.”

The heavily tattooed star became known for mixing 1950 dresses with contemporary blouses and stilettos.

News agency, the Associated Press, said the “show’s concept was hard-edged femininity, dressed up with Gaultier’s signature touch of androgyny”.

The models were accompanied, on the catwalk, by a barbershop rendition of Winehouse’s songs, including Rehab to Back to Black.

Fashion Wire Daily’s Godfrey Deeny said: “In a generous return to form for Gaultier, the collection was a joyful homage to the troubled London chanteuse and her quirky bohemian style.”

Winehouse died in July last year, aged 27.

In November, a polka dot chiffon dress, which she wore on the cover of her hit album Back to Black, sold for £43,200 at an auction.

Last year, clothing brand Fred Perry released a collection of clothes which Winehouse herself had helped design.

The singer favoured the tennis brand, often teaming polo shirts with tight pencil skirts.

Credits cards and clothes have always had a chummy relationship and on Wednesday night the Fashion Design Council of Canada (FDCC) effectively tied the knot.

Toronto’s Fashion Week, whose tag – like that of any other major world fashion week – seems to fluctuate with the corporate winds, has settled on World Mastercard Fashion Week as its new name.

Robin Kay, president of the FDCC, which engineers the biannual affair), announced the new relationship at an exclusive event in Toronto’s Royal Conservatory, and also debuted the week’s new logo, which features “fashion week” as the prominent text in block letters that break the words under Mastercard’s familiar Venn diagram.

“This is the first time that a sponsor has given fashion week such play,” says Kay of the logo. “I’m incredibly pleased that fashion week takes the prominence.”

The event’s last major sponsor, electronics giant LG, had finished its 2009 contract in fall 2011, and the new big name is considered a coup for fashion week, which is the second largest in North America and exists on corporate funding.

“While we promote and cultivate the Canadian fashion landscape, we are not financially subsidized by any level of government,” says Kay.

Monikers aside, Mastercard looks to be delving into the fashion climate by bringing fans content during fashion week via Facebook and Twitter (they’ve already called dibs on hashtag “#pricelessToronto”), and also bolstering their Stylicity program, which promises special offers and experiences to card holders in fashionable Toronto neighbourhoods in March.

Mastercard, like the FDCC, is interested in reminding Canadians that the week is not merely an exclusive sneak peek for industry insiders and fashion journalists, but a global showcase for designers and a venue for shoppers actually purchase items.

“This is a signal that fashion is to be bought,” says Kay.

The theme for this spring’s fashion week, which will parade the fall-winter 2011/2012 collections of Canadian and international designers, also speaks to the council’s interest in bringing fashion to the masses. “Canadian catwalk” runs March 12 to 17.

Cameron Diaz pops by Paris fashion shows

Cameron Diaz is hitting the fashion week shows in Paris. On Wednesday, she posed at the Valentino Spring/Summer 2012 Haute-Couture show, and on Tuesday she was spotted checking out the Chanel collection. Do you like her girlish frock? … Salma Hayek has also been spotted at the shows — in a plunging black lace dress. … And disco divas Sister Sledge, Gloria Gaynor, Grace Jones and Chaka Kahn took over the Etam fashion house runway this week. … Speaking of Cameron Diaz, new posters are out for her May 11 film, What to Expect When You’re Expecting, featuring a bunch of bumps, including Anna Kendrick, Elizabeth Banks and Brooklyn Decker. … And speaking of Elizabeth Banks, she says that ledge in her new movie was “real.” …

Elsewhere: Tom Cruise and daughter Suri had some special father-daughter time at Disneyland on Wednesday. … Katie Couric doesn’t want to just talk to celebs about their new movies. … Look for American Idol Scotty McCreery to guest star on Hart of Dixie on April 23. … Stan Lee says Andrew Garfield is as good a Spider-Man as Tobey Maguire. … Jason Wu’s Target collection unveiling is almost here. … Congrats are in order for Community’s Danny Pudi and his wife, Bridget, who are proud parents of twins — a son and daughter. … And finally, Jerry Seinfeld’s take on comedy: “People live lives of ‘quiet desperation.’ Standup is loud desperation.” He adds, he “never felt great” being at the top of the heap. “This is not where I belong.”

MONTREAL – Neon pink, lime and tangerine orange Ts have sprouted at the Gap, a quick pick-me-up for the winter blahs, which seem to have hit a little early this year. At BCBG, juicy orange dresses and trousers are front and centre, along with a flowing, long lemon yellow dress. Simons is showing purple Joe’s Jeans, kelly green tops and dresses, and Christopher Kane’s rainbow resort collection. Clearly, you need look no farther than your local mall for a spring colour blast. You could also look to the women in the crowd at President Obama’s State of the Union address Tuesday. They wore the shades of peacocks, parrots and birds of paradise: Michelle Obama in sapphire Barbara Tfank, and shots of emerald, fuchsia, red and yellow throughout the audience. Fashion is seasonless, and the march of merch ceaseless. The seasons are a mash, with resort and pre-fall vying for attention with spring runway reports. And Paris haute couture for spring and summer wrapped Wednesday. Point is, nobody is stalling deliveries of fresh fashion even in Montreal, although we remain woollied up to our eyeballs. Here is what we know about what will be on offer in the next six months:

Colourama: Pantone has declared tangerine tango, a vivacious juicy orange, the colour of 2012. True enough, last year’s love affair with all things orange is carrying on. But a quick look at the runways reveals a zap of electric yellow – Pantone’s Solar Power – to be the brightener of the season. Paula Patton sported it at the Golden Globes in a gown by Monique Lhuillier, and Vera Wang, Oscar de la Renta and Sonia Rykiel all dared to blare. Even H&M coloured its women’s lookbook a dazzling yellow. (The men’s lookbook is orange.)

But the fashion pendulum swings. By the time spring is here, pastels will take their place – moss, baby blue, pink and yellow and soothing neutrals dominated the spring catwalk palette. Think Chanel, with its waterworld set, lacy Louis Vuitton and flapperish Ralph Lauren.

Flipping for flappers: Roaring ’20s style, with the dropped waist, asymmetrical hem, geometric sequin embellishment and a sense of freedom, is back – again. Credit The Artist, with the fetching Bérénice Bejo as Peppy Miller (loved all her shoes in the flick!), and Baz Luhrmann’s coming remake of The Great Gatsby. Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Roberto Cavalli and Etro were among the designers putting on the glitz.

Erogenous zone: Fab abs were bared on skinny models at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Nina Ricci and many more. Not a trend to take universally.

Waterworld: Blue from aqua to turquoise, flowed freely on the catwalks, and is landing in a Winners near you soon, along with water motifs: coral and underwater prints at Mary Katzantrou, clamshell couture at Armani, strange, mermaid-like creatures at Alexander McQueen, and from Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, a show set in an underworld fantasyland.

Couture revival: Fifties classic couture inspired Dries Van Noten, Jil Sander, Jason Wu, Oscar de la Renta and Theyskens Theory – worn by Piper Perabo at the Golden Globes. The age of elegance is revived for the 21st century.

Fit chic: Beyond Lululemons, athletic designs and high-tech fabrics hit the runway at Alexander Wang, always one to watch.

Here is what three fashion professionals have to say about spring.

The Pantone prognosticator: “Fashion is always a leader in where we go with colour,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Colour Institute.

People find a jolt of orange – tangerine tango – uplifting and inspiring when the economy is depressing, she said.

“Colours are lingering on from one season to another because people are getting more practical,’’ she said. And the neutrals people buy when the economy is dicey need spicing up.

People experiment with bright accessories because that costs less than a new coat, so you will see oranges in shoes, belts, bags, jewellery and tops, Eiseman said. Orange is also showing up in accessories for the home, especially tabletops, she added.

Solar power yellow, next to orange on the colour wheel, is now No. 2. It has gained momentum since Eiseman first noted it two years ago in Europe.

Also strong for spring, blue, between navy and royal, a great balancing colour for orange, as well as neutral beiges that Pantone is calling starfish and driftwood. And a five-year love affair with margarita, a yellow-green, continues, she said.

As for those runway pastels, “There’s something very ethereal and dreamlike about them,’’ Eiseman said. “Women love the romanticism of those colours.’’

Orange in its many guises will continue to autumn, as will the hot pinks, which have had a long run in the fashion spotlight.

“Retro is definitely not going away. It captures a lot of attention on the part of consumers.”

The mass merchant: Winners rolled its racks into Montreal Monday to preview its spring offerings to media and stylists. “Colour is the big story of the season,’’ said PR manager Colleen Uncao. There are the classic blacks and whites, the life aquatic for blues mixed with pearlized and metallic accents, as well as the ongoing trend to saturated brights.

Neutrals are all about textures like crocheted lace and are often ladylike and 20s-inspired with dropped waists and cloche hats, she said. “Pastels and sorbets are fresh for spring.”

Uncao predicts bright jeans will have mass appeal this spring, for women, men and kids.

The sport trend is also big for Winners, with techno jackets, mesh inlays, and little tennis dresses.

Among the items we spotted on the racks: aqua jeans, bathing suits and scarves; colour-blocked patent heels in turquoise and purple, or red and pink; cream crocheted flapper dresses, long and short, with tiers of lace.

The trend watcher: Jeremy Gutsche of Trend Hunter, an online compilation of hundreds of thousands of micro trends, said this period of economic uncertainty is having an effect on fashion. “This leads people to jump at things a little more happy or positive,’’ said Gutsche, based in Toronto.

He characterizes that trend as superhero reality, with bright colours. The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo is another aspect of that, with Lisbeth Salander seen as a female superhero.

Virtual reality is making its way to retail, he said, with virtual shoe fittings at Converse, virtual dressing rooms for bathing suits and virtual makeup mirrors.

On the retro front, Mad Men inspired the trend to the ’50s and ’60s, Gutsche pointed out. Now we’re looking to the 20s, with flapper fashion and the rise of apothecaries and speakeasies. (Montreal has Want Apothecary in Westmount, and a speakeasy at Rosalie’s on de la Montagne St.)

“Whatever becomes popular becomes mainstream. Because cool is not what’s popular,” Gutsche said. “It’s that next big thing.”

JuJu fashion label launched

A fashion designer from Pretoria’s Mabopane township launched a range of clothes inspired by suspended ANC Youth League leader Julius Malema on Thursday.

The branded caps, T-shirts and vests, which feature a brightly coloured mouth, were inspired by his speeches, says the 27-year-old designer, Obakeng Ramabodu.

“I have not met someone, who, when he speaks, 80 percent of people listen.”

It was the outspoken Malema’s drive to achieve his goals against all odds that inspired Ramabodu to persevere with his idea to develop the JuJu label. Juju is Malema’s nickname.

“He is always pushing for things,” he said.

The JuJu label was selling well, with 300 T-shirts snapped up soon after coming on the market.

The designer was aiming at the 10 to 36-year-old market and would include a JuJu Babe range for women, JuJu Boy for young men and JuJu Kids.

Despite Ramabodu’s enthusiasm for South African politics, manufacturing costs forced him to look to China to produce the first range.

“It is a South African idea. The Chinese could not have made this thing if it was not in my mind.”

He was now hoping to interest big retailers like the Edcon Group and Woolworths in selling the clothes. The JuJu range’s first provincial launch would take place in Malema’s home province of Limpopo. – Sapa

Rihanna to front new fashion TV show

The What’s My Name singer will produce and appear in the unnamed show on Sky Living, the winner of which will create an outfit for her headline appearance at this summer’s Wireless Festival in London.

See Rihanna’s holiday wardrobe

The singer, famous for her revealing and risqué style choices said: “I’ve always had a great love of fashion. It’s a constant source of inspiration in my life, and is a big reason why I’ve grown into the person and artist I am today.”

She added that is “very fortunate” to have collaborated with renowned designers and stylists through her career so far, and explained how she is “excited to follow the journey of our aspiring contestants and see how their individuality influences their efforts during the course of the show.”

See inside Rihanna’s dressing room

Girls Aloud star Nicola Roberts – who has asserted herself as a front row favourite thanks to her fashion-forward style and own range of make-up – has been handpicked to front the series.

“I was so flattered when Rihanna asked me to work with her on this show,” said Roberts. “I’m so excited for us to get started on finding a new up and coming British designer who just needs a chance, a little bit of help in getting their skills noticed.

Promising designers will be challenged over the course of 10 weeks to create outfits for musicians and celebrities.

Sky Living: “The chance to dress one of the world’s most famous women for an event that will attract worldwide coverage is the perfect springboard for the aspiring designer’s future fashion career.”